Americans Are Sick of Synthetics- Wool Makes A Comeback

But Are There Enough Sheep to Support the Boom?

The cheaper goods at any cost mindset might be going out of style when it comes to textiles. Americans are getting sick of synthetic clothing or, quite literally, sick from manufacturing chemicals used to treat synthetic fabrics like nylon, polyester and acrylic.  Shifting consumer opinions are giving rise to natural fibers once again.  Wool is gaining attention, but are there enough sheep to meet demand?

Global Consolidation of the Textile Industry

With about 1.3 billion sheep in the world you would think there would be enough for everyone to get a new shirt.  One shirt requires about 1.5 pounds of wool and the average wool sheep can provide anywhere between 10 and 20 pounds of wool. But, of those 1.3 billion, less than half are raised for wool.  Most of the global sheep herd are bred solely for meat production or a combination of meat and wool.

In the United States, we’ve drifted pretty far from our early industrial beginnings where sheep were the preferred livestock because they could provide both food and clothing and cities were built around wool mills.  Today, there are only five commercial wool mills in operation that can shear, wash, brush and spin wool into textile materials and about 150 independently owned mini mills in America performing portions of these tasks. Much of the wool produced here in the U.S. is shipped straight out of the country for processing and returns in the form of textile products.

The wool industry in the United States was largely decimated by synthetic options that became popular in the early 1970s.  In 1973, 75% of clothes were made from natural fibers, today 70% of our clothes are derived from synthetics.  The commercial sized mills have been abandoned and 98% of the clothes Americans wear are imported textiles, few of which contain wool.  Cheaper labor and compliance costs in places like China and India have also contributed to a global consolidation of the textile industry.  

What Would Happen if Consumers Stopped Buying Synthetic Textiles?

Switching to natural fibers is an appealing idea for several reasons.  First, it would reduce our reliance on oil as most synthetics depend on oil production byproducts.  Second, it would decrease pollution caused by the forever chemicals used to treat synthetic fabrics.  Third, it is reusable. Natural fibers can be transformed into other products instead of trashed after use. And finally, sheep present a sustainable livestock option, able to adapt and thrive in multiple environments. They are a key part of integrated, regenerative systems.

However, we have become so dependent on our current textile supply chains and production models that if a large portion of consumers were to stop buying synthetics it could create significant disruptions. Plus, consumers would have to be willing to pay more for their clothing.

Price volatility would be an initial shock.  There are not enough sheep to meet a big increase in demand and it would take years for herd sizes to swell enough to generate a stable supply. Minimal supply equals expensive textiles.  U.S. consumers would be paying high prices for this limited supply, most of which would be imported from wool sheep production hubs like Australia, New Zealand, Iran and China. The textile infrastructure no longer exists here on a commercial scale. 

Decreased demand for synthetics could crumble micro economies around the globe dependent on consumers who enjoy cheaply priced goods.  Though the textile industry is fairly integrated, developing nations claim a large portion of fast fashion production. However, the same countries that produce fast fashion also lead the world in the production of wool textiles.  Whatever is lost in synthetics could potentially spur production of natural fibers.  The shift then forces a greater reliance on agriculture over fossil fuels. 

The future of wool production favors countries with the least agricultural land limitations.  China has the largest sheep herd, but further expansion would require production shifts that support commercial farming over current grazing practices.  Will wool suddenly become more expensive because China must increase feedstock imports?  Growing the herd could mean they lose a competitive edge.  Australia and New Zealand have less land restrictions and already have developed supply chains connecting them to the Oceanic regions that manufacture textiles .  Canada and the United States have the fewest land limitations.  Despite the fact that we have fewer mills, we have more land for livestock grazing.

The Future of the Wool Industry in the U.S.

While we have ample grazing land, in the United States farmers have favored meat sheep over wool producing varieties. Meat sheep tend to produce faster and have a higher rate of twins than wool sheep.  With demand for lamb up and domestic demand for wool down, meat sheep have been the more lucrative option for a long time.  Yet, the increasing demand for natural fiber textiles is real and, perhaps, not a fad American farmers are willing to overlook.  

If more consumers want chemical free clothing, wool could become a long term trend and a smart direction for American farmers.  Even if the United States continues to export raw wool to be cleaned and spun into final products American farmers could benefit from the rising interest in natural fibers. 

Reclaiming a larger segment of the wool industry would require the U.S. to build back textile manufacturing infrastructure.  We need more mills.  And, Americans need an easier avenue for securing the capital necessary to not only raise more sheep, but convert their wool into textiles.  If we abandoned cheap at any cost in favor of clean at any cost then sheep could take on a larger role in American agriculture; at the very least supporting domestic production that appeals to sustainably minded consumers willing to pay a little extra for chemical free textiles. 

Demand is genuine for wool- it isn’t fad fashion driving popularity.  More consumers want chemical free clothing and durable items.  It will likely be a long term trend which means it could be a smart step for farmers.